Khajuraho and Panna — Memories Unlimited
1. India, with its amazingly unifying diversity, steeped in a rich history, backed by an extraordinary wide cultural microcosm, a multi religious milieu (with a history of harmonious co-existence), geographical diversity with natural beauty at its wondrous best encapsulates an array of holidaying possibilities. The country offers something to suit every palate — be it religious, cultural, historical, adventurous or exploration of nature. Continuing with our endeavour to explore India, this time me and my wife chose the historical city of Khajuraho and its neighbouring Panna Tiger Reserve — a seemingly (in hindsight on the mark) perfect combination of culture, history, religion and natural beauty (with more than a fair amount of wildlife making it a memorable and enjoyable outing).
2. Timing it with the 50th Khajuraho Dance Festival, we planned a week-long holiday to attend a part of the festival, see the historical cum religious landmarks of Khajuraho with a couple of days nestling in the lap of nature in the Panna Tiger Reserve. Given the rush of people endeavouring to attend the festival (indeed the amount of interest which traditional Indian art forms generate among all age groups was something of a pleasant revelation), hotel bookings initially presented some obstacles. But the timely help of some well-wishers, backed by a stroke of good luck, enabled us to get Hotel Lalit in Khajuraho and Taj Pashangarh in Panna as our abode for the sojourn.
3. The inter-city travel was something of a concern with only one flight linking Delhi and Khajuraho run by Spice Jet which some friends (in hindsight rather ill- informed) informed was rather erratic and prone to frequent last minute cancellations with the infinite potential to cause the planning to go haywire. However, to our sheer fortune, the flight was on the dot and in fact landed before its scheduled time at the cosy and local airport in an even cosier and charming city of Khajuraho, most famous for the intricate architecture and grandeur manifested in its series of temples.
4. Checking into Hotel Lalit we were lucky to be allotted our preferred temple view room which afforded a clear-cut view of the majestic temple complex located nearby, specially when lit up in the evening. Of course, the Hotel itself resonated a warm and cosy ambience with the personnel on duty not just appealingly but actually radiating cheer with an evident desire to serve and make you comfortable — an atmosphere made extraordinarily intimate by the large well-appointed rooms and cheery by the expanse of verdant green lawns liberally spruced up with blooming flower beds. The sight of my Father’s (“Pitaji” as we called him) favourite tree — what he called the “weeping Ashoka” lining the boundary walls in extraordinary abundance added a tinge of sentiment — reminding me of my childhood when he in an evident manifestation of his love for nature planted such trees in abundance both at home and in the institutions with which he was associated with and passionately nurtured them.
5. After a brief rest and invigorated by a cup of tea, we decided to move on quickly to the venue of the dance festival, to get vantage seats for the performances. We were also informed that the organizing authorities (rather pleasantly) were particular about sticking to schedules and the daily programme commenced and concluded on time with the time-lines being minutely followed, something which was found to be true and would have involved serious back-room coordination and feverish activity considering the last minute adjustments on the stage, acoustics and lighting in between performances, not to mention the constant movement of people including VIPs, calling for deft, at times, delicate handling while taking care not to disturb the artists’ performance. Kudos to the organisers, Ustad Allauddin Khan Sangeet Evam Kala Akademi and various Wings of the Madhya Pradesh Government and other bodies for conceptualizing, organizing, presenting and that too flawlessly this amazing spectacle. While the dance performances are organized on the forecourt of one of the Western Group of temples, the entire area bears a festive look with various programmes devoted to the promotion of arts and culture in addition to stalls featuring the regional cuisine of Madhya Pradesh, an art exhibition, activities from various regions displaying their wares and what have you.
6. Just a small jarring note on what was otherwise a flawlessly planned and executed programme. One could understand the desire, in fact necessity for the organizers to please certain organizations/institutions for which purpose seats were duly reserved. In fact, till such time these important dignitaries presented themselves in a bit of rather ingenious planning, the organizers had planted decoys on the front seats to make way when the important jurists presented themselves. However, what was somewhat jarring in the entire exercise was the constant movement of people even when the performances were in progress, with security personnel and other constantly moving around and the hullabaloo as and when an important person arrived showing scant respect for the performers and needless to say disturbing the audience with some personnel even blocking the view for extended periods of time. Perhaps the organizers should find a way to deal with this somewhat major irritant which tends to sully an otherwise eminently commendable effort.
7. The dance performances take place in the evening with the backdrop of the setting sun making the atmosphere electric, but the day also is packed with a host of activities. What I found particularly interesting was “Nepathya” a display of the various styles of Indian classical dance, the cultural scenario and the journey of the Arts and “Kalavarta” a dialogue between various artists and scholars of which I attended one session which gave me a sneak peek into the world of Arts/Culture and its intricacies something which left me feeling somewhat disconnected at the shallowness of my knowledge and the vast areas of human endeavour of which I have either Nil or, at best, very limited knowledge about. Nevertheless, the prominent status of the Khajuraho Dance Festival was reinforced on me by the repertoire, roster and array of reputed performers and the electric atmosphere.
8. Watching the performances one was amazed by the extraordinary effort honed by years of painstaking study and desire to achieve pinnacles of excellence. The need for physical and mental state to be working in perfect sync, the coordinated efforts of an entire team — dances, musicians, technicians, chorographers, make-up artists, costume designers, lighting coordinators, stage setters — to name a few with no scope for error — considering the prestige attached to the event and the fact that performances were before a knowledgeable audience and simultaneously telecast online.
9. The other thing that struck me was the unique blend of art and science — seemingly disparate world’s particularly while ensuring proper lighting and voice effects( vocal as well as instrumental) with the activities, physical movements of the dancers (the complexity of which to my mind only gets compounded when a group is performing). To take just one example, just to ensure that the rhythmic acoustics of the “ghungroo”( small metal bells tied through together by a cloth to form musical anklets) was tested, as a part of the preparatory routine from various areas of the stage to ensure the requisite effect was just mind-boggling. The effort and the minute attention to detail put in by the musicians to arrive at the perfect dimensions of given the need for strict adherence to time schedule was astounding.
10. Watching performances straddling a wide swathe of Indian Arts/cultures also struck me was the steadfast adherence to the “Guru Shishya” Parampara in the realm of performing arts with salutations/obeisance to the formative Gurus and the recognition/appreciation of their role in the development/maturing/ flowering and coming of age of the individual performers.
11. Due to some kind of a scheduling error on my part we missed the dance drama “Meera” directed by Padmabhushan Dr Sonal Mansingh on the concluding day which the grapevine informed was going to be somewhat spectacular — may be sometime later at an equally enthralling event Just to emphasize the temple complex, which was stage for the performances, presented a rather amazing sight just before the programme began with the backdrop of the setting sun( the red ball of fire slowly manifested an orange soothing appearance before melting away into the horizon). Gradually as the evening wore on, the night sky with the moon making an appearance suitably enhanced manifold, the sublimity and grandeur of the entire setting.
12. The next day we undertook a tour of the Khajuraho temples which are a group of Hindu and Jain temples. Originally numbering an astounding more than eighty, only twenty-two survive today — the result of man-made actions and natural disasters spanning several centuries. Although they no longer retain their status as places of worship (with the sanctum — sanctorum having been desecrated as a result of various happenings), they are now monuments, and are even recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO given their outstanding architecture and expanse.
13. However, colloquially, they still are collectively referred to as temples, with for ease of classification, they are being sub-divided into the Eastern and Western groups of temples. Estimated to have been constructed in the 900–1100 AD by the Chandela Dynasty which ruled large parts of erstwhile Bundelkhand (now a part of Madhya Pradesh), the temples are remarkable for the intricate and complex artistry on display in the façade covering a wide array of subjects. Given the special status accorded to it by International agencies and National/State Governments, pointed attention has been and is being focused on a continuing basis to preserve and even restore these monuments (to the extent possible) — with parts excavated from the ruins of the permanently destroyed structures being preserved to be used to replace portions of the structures should the need arise. The structures are also remarkable for the construction method used with the entire structure being sub-divided into separate blocks held together not by any material/mortar but by a system of intricate yet immaculate interlocking (mortise and tenon joints held together by gravity which requires extraordinary precision) supported on strong granite foundations. Our guide informed us that the structures are so built as to be capable of withstanding earthquakes of magnitude of eight or more on the Richter Scale — a claim seemingly unbelievable and which albeit I could not authoritatively verify. Nevertheless, in spite of the surging temperature during the day, a visit to the various groups of temples with the help of a knowledgeable guide was extremely satisfying.
14. Khajuraho evidently also offers delightful culinary experiences with a vast range of options to choose from. For starters, Raja Café which is located just near the entry to the Western group of temples boasts of a legendry culinary heritage and offers a wide range of Indian/continental cuisine and is a must on the list of most travellers. As for the local Bundelkhandi flavour, one must try the Thadula — a deep fried flat bread (Puri) made from Urad dal served with curry and condiments. Also locals guide you to Badri Seth Marwari Bhoj — a vegetarian restaurant (whose thali is worth trying) and where one can enjoy local sweets (and even take some back home). Babu Chat Bhandar, a rather non-descript shop, belying its physical appearance offers delectable and mouthwatering palak karela chaat.
15. After two days of hectic yet soul-embalming activity we proceeded to Panna National Park with a stop at Raneh Falls enroute. The drive to Raneh Falls which barely took about half an hour was fairly comfortable in spite of the road being single owing to the low traffic volume and the neatly paved roads with an abundance of green on both sides making it somewhat ethereal. Considering the season, the waterfall was almost dry but the almost 30 feet deep Canyon, popularly dubbed India’s “Grand Canyon” (as my well-informed yet somewhat over enthusiastic guide told me) made for an amazing sight. Lined with various shades of granite, the vast expanse with the Ken River flowing, appealingly somewhat leisurely, the sheer gargantuan size made it mystic. Engaging in a bit of hiking along the pathways and strategically placed platforms, one also saw a couple of crocodiles and gharials relaxing easily in the sun. Of course, one also encountered a fair bit of the Avian species (birds) who in their cacophonic exuberance were a bird- watchers and nature lovers delight.
16. Moving on we reached Panna by early afternoon and checked into Taj Pashangarh — a Taj Safari Resort spread over almost two hundred acres but with only about twelve, stand alone cottages each located independently. In due deference to its lineage, the resort adroitly intermixes ultimate luxury in jungle settings without compromising the delicate nature and the ecological eco-system, which is fragile at best. Sitting in the balcony facing a vast expanse of dense forest one got a clear view of the sunset — with the grand ball of fire, slowly changing its hues to a mellow orange, exhibiting a perfectly circular round shape (belying the massive energy lying underneath) before merging with the horizon.
17. The other thing that struck me was the sheer limited workforce at the property ( a feature which I observed at Lalit Khajuraho also) with multitasking the accepted norm and perhaps, a limited number of human beings in these natural surroundings was another attempt towards sustainability — a person manning the front-desk could also be engaged in house-keeping or manning tables in the Restaurant (most effectively at that) with only the most specialists functions being manned by separate persons. Located in the midst of the jungles, one could encounter a fair amount of animal life in the precincts itself. We saw an abundance of deer in the backyard within almost handshaking distance. Peacocks there were in plenty and, of course, different species of birds lending colour and diversity to the landscape. Walking around the property (accompanied by security personnel — a strict advisory) one could see a burrow created by a sloth bear, sambar pugmarks near a water body and, of course, a manifestation of nature’s ultimate fury- trees burnt down by a lightning strike. Of course, a walk in these surroundings serves as a food for the soul and an embalming influence on the mind.
18. Apparently while the Panna Tiger Reserve has several gates, as a practice the Forest Department divides it into a core zone (where the wildlife and natural resources are strictly controlled/protected) and a buffer zone (which surrounds the core area where while nature is conserved it is alongside natural uses of land/water). We were scheduled to take the evening Safari from Akola Gate, about twelve kilometres from our hotel. Arriving at the gate by about 5.00 p.m, the weather had turned decidedly chilly and thankfully we were well stocked. Our Jeep drivers informed that sighting had been good in the last couple of days and were overtly optimistic. We only hoped that the law of averages would not somewhat dent our plans. Whatever, with pregnant expectation, we embarked on our sojourn, in tranquil surroundings. The affable duo gave us a complete lowdown on the forests, its operating environment (if I may call it that) and, of course, the animals to expect.
19 While we wished to sight the tiger, it seemed the jungle had a lot to offer — being fixated on the tiger could amount to what I read in a book in the resort — “missing the woods for the trees”. Well lo and behold, just a couple of minutes into our ride, the guide spotted a sloth bear lurking in the jungle. Pointing a torch at it in the semi-dark and with the aid of binoculars we could see it clearly. Following it with the spotlight, the four legged creature a picture of infinite grace crossed the path in front of us and then, belying its seemingly massive frame, lunged into the woods. Apparently, sloth bears have very long hair, which is one reason why tigers rarely attack them, their long hair making it difficult for them to eat into the skin. We again saw a fair bit of the avian species and a lot of greenery within the pristine surroundings making a perfect setting. However, in spite, of number of pit stops, constant exchanging of messages with other drivers and, of course, sheer instinctive knowledge — a tiger eluded us. While we still had hope lined up for the morrow, one got solace in the fact that while we had not seen the trees, we definitely got more than our share of the woods (we still had another Safari lined up for the next morning).
20. Next morning since we were to leave at an unearthly 5.30 a.m. the hotel had packed breakfast for us. We were scheduled to take the morning safari from Madla Gate which was about a 40 minutes drive — reaching earlier will make the waiting time shorter and multiply the chances of sighting manifold. Entering the park, we saw plentiful of spotted deer and sambhar with their faces exhibiting an inherent innocence and visage, interminable grace. Watching them moving in groups, one could not but think that familial feelings are just simply not the preserve of humans alone. The driver and guide navigated us through various paths in the jungle and through a combination of measures (some scientific, some instinctive) and with constant exchange of information (pug marks, cat calls etc) sought to locate tiger(s). After about two hours and considering that the sky was suddenly enveloped by dense clouds it was decided to take a detour for breakfast at a pristine spot on the banks of the Ken (Karnawati) river which was the usual stage for a break in the Safari where all the jeeps converged. It rained torrentially for some time but we were safely ensconced in the huts having breakfast and sipping hot beverages.
21. As soon as the rain subsided, we started moving around in groups, strolling, admiring the scenery and clicking innumerable photos when suddenly there was chaos and a call to arms — a tiger had been sighted (perhaps family of four) and we had to rush — their appearance while fortuitous could be just fleeting also and we needed to make it fast with the driver putting all stops and in the process even throwing caution to the winds. While the entire episode might have appeared foolhardy at that time and indeed it was paradoxically, the end-result was worth it.
22. Soon after parking of the jeep at a vantage point, with a crowd having slowly formed there, a couple of tigers appeared in the bushes joyfully playing seemingly engaged in sibling banter and so it was for a family of three male cubs and a female cub (albeit almost fully grown up) were out there. Slowly they emerged out of the bushes, four pin-striped furry four legged creatures, alternatively running, walking and having a gala time blissfully unaware of the human presence around them to the point of giving them the cold shoulder. After more than a couple of minutes of unabashed revelry, they, save for one, leisurely crossed the path in front of us and disappeared into the forest. However, one of them perhaps sighting some ready pray on the other side lunged forcefully — I was hoping that my luck would still endure and I would witness a live kill, but the old adage, if wishes were horses one could gallop (not just canter) with them came true and it seems my quota of good fortune had run out for the day — of course, with no regrets — what we had seen was something that not very many people are able to (even after umpteen attempts).
23. After watching a surfeit of animal life specially four legged creatures, one could not but help notice the rather uncanny similarity in the world of quadrupeds- their entire functionality and operating system (not talking about the inherent biological make up) but their externality seems to resonate some kind of sameness . Also, these creatures exhibit remarkable agility, belying their size. One only has to see the lunging tigers and galloping sloth bears to admire their agility and speed and as I said earlier, familial feeling and natural instincts are very much a part of the animal world also.
24. While the chase to see tigers might involve missing the woods for the trees in our case, we were able to appreciate and see both the woods and trees — somehow a trip never seems complete in the absence of seeing a tiger.
25. After five days- a combination of fervent activity and leisure and, of course, with our bodies and minds suitably relaxed and energised we came back home with plans already afoot for our next holiday — being interminably bitten by the travel bug.
