The Magical and Angelic Mystique of Arunachal Pradesh- Part -2
1. Early next morning, the requisite permissions having already been obtained, courtesy some thoughtful planning by my wife and purposeful and directed efforts by Sangey we embarked on the trip to Bumla Pass, on the China Border a distance of barely about 50 kms but considering the mountainous terrain could take close to three hours. The drive itself was a combination of thrill, adventure, excitement and, of course, breathtaking wondrous views. While the road conditions, pleasantly and surprisingly, were pretty good, the sharp bends, turns and increasing heights made it all the more back-breakingly exciting. The gradual decrease in oxygen levels as we reached more than 10,000 ft required some adjustment. However, all this was made up by subsuming and absorbing the phenomenal bounties that nature had to offer even at these increasing heights. Along the way we made a small detour to Sangetsar Lake (popularly known as Madhuri Lake) one of the most popular lakes in Arunachal Pradesh. Nestled among mountains on practically all sides, the crystal blue water with somewhat chilling but fresh winds blowing had a magical effect with mind blowing natural beauty and spellbinding ambience.
2. After this pit stop, at Madhuri Lake we reached Bumla Pass, bordering China just before noon and going by the experience were certainly glad and indeed grateful to have got this opportunity and made it this far. While the intense pride was self-evident among the not unseizable number of visitors, what immediately stuck was the confidence reverberating and manifesting itself in the armed forces reflective of a renewed vigour and capability to take the adversary headlong and from all accounts it did not appear to be empty bravado but backed by intent, intricate analysis, planning and thoughtfulness. Nevertheless, the personnel there gave us a complete historical perspective to the place coupled with a sneak peek, into the state of India’s military preparedness. Towards the end, the crowd spontaneously burst into singing the National Anthem followed by “Bharat Mata Ki Jai” (“Long Live Mother India”) in a fit of reverie, unbridled enthusiasm and unabashed exhibition of patriotism. The entire package of the experience was such as to be not describable in any words.
3. On the way back, we also encountered a place where a continuous Langar was being run serving hot tea and snacks round the clock. On further conversation/enquiry, we were told that this was the place where Guru Nanak, the founding Sikh Guru had stopped during one of the Udasis (Divine travels) while spreading the real message of God. Indeed, a pious act backed by undisputed noble intent.
4. The next morning, I undertook, what I readily admit was the most foolish and insane act on this trip. Getting up early morning to a clear blue sky with the welcoming rays of sun providing the apt warmth and clean fresh air, I ventured out on a brisk walk to the nearby Buddha Park, of which the statue of Gautam Buddha could be seen from our Guest House. Shedding all caution and in a display of infinite nonsensical bravado, I started walking towards that park which I was told was about two km away at my customary morning walk pace (to put it mildly feverish), not discounting the reduced oxygen level at these heights. Soon enough the quixotic and misplaced confidence in my physical fitness manifested itself and lo and behold, a couple of hundred meters into my foolhardy venture, I was short of breath to the point of panting. It was only the fortitudinous pressure of a roadside shop and the presence of mind of the young man present there which came to my rescue. By recognizing my discomfort, he offered me a place to sit, gradually working me back to my senses (apparently while not an expert he had gained enough experience with foolhardy people like me). Offering me a welcome warm cup of tea, he insisted on escorting me back to the Guest House — the good Samaritan was a real manna from heaven and of incalculable help to me in my hour of absolute infamy and stupidity.
5. After some rest which abetted the recovery and a hearty breakfast we visited the Tawang Monastery. Located on top of a hilltop, the Monastery has an elevation of about 10,000 feet and is notable not only for its immaculate cleanliness and serene atmosphere but also for the natural beauty in all directions. Founded in accordance with the wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, it has an eight meter tall statute of Shakyamuni Buddha. His Holiness the Dalai Lama also spent some days there during his escape from Tibet in 1959. Just outside the monastery on the approach road is the Sangha Café which offers amazing coffee and delectable cheese cake. But its peace de resistance is the large almost roof height windows offers amazing 360 degree views of the surrounding valley which you could savour endlessly.
6. The afternoon and the evening was spent at the Tawang War memorial, something for which we all had, for once unanimously agreed to put in some extra time and the visit was somewhat of a most humbling and edifying experience tinged with extraordinary solemnity. Built as a “Chorten” (a Buddhist Shrine), the War Memorial immortalizes the sacrifice of the Indian soldiers who valiantly laid down their lives in the Sino-India War in 1962. Elegantly designed and enthusiastically built with the earnest support of the local community, the memorial chronicles the brave acts of the forces in the 1962 war replete with photos, memorabilia and exhibits. Of course the dedication “Their names liveth for evermore” does leave a lump in the throat of even the most hardened. The evening sound and light show set in sylvan surroundings (notwithstanding the chilly winds) graphically illustrates even more the supreme and gallant sacrifice of our Armed Forces with the busts of the decorated officers and soldiers along a pathway lined with trees adding completeness to the entire package.
7. The visit was also a revelation into the sacrifices made by our Armed Forces in particular Subedar Joginder Singh who while commanding a platoon in the 1962, single handedly killed more than 50 Chinese soldiers in the face of an enemy which was much better equipped apart from being numerically vastly superior. He died from injuries while in Chinese custody and was posthumously awarded the country’s highest battle honour Param Vir Chakra. We were also told that to commemorate sixty years of the Indo China War, the memorial had been recently renovated and the families of India’s War Heroes duly felicitated — a small act of recognise their limitless and unput downable in words sacrifice. The unmistakable underlying feeling more than fleetingly present among all sections of the society and Armed Forces, in particular, was to move on from the disaster of 1962 with a renewed confidence in the ability of the country to take any challenge to its sovereignity headlong — backed both by a steely resolve and suitably augmented infrastructure and military capabilities.
8. The thought again entered my mind as to the need for our acclaimed Bollywood Directors to make a film on the 1962 War and biopic on the lives of at least some of the soldiers whose tales of sacrifice deserve to be preserved on celluloid and made known to future generation(s) for whom the Indo-China War in 1962 is just a footnote in history or a chapter in their textbooks.
9. The two days in Tawang were an eclectic mixture of nestling in natural beauty immersed in extraordinary solemnity, soothing spirituality not to forget the extraordinary tinge of the foolhardiness adventure embedded in my morning walk — the entire package was in the least, memorable and soul-stirring. Of course with the benefit of hindsight I can safely say that we were not done yet.
10. The plan for the next day was to undertake an almost five-hour drive to Dirang, a small town in West Kameng District which in spite of the hectic activity of the past two days, we managed to commence at the scheduled time. Along the way we were to pass Tenga Valley and took a stop at the famous Bakery, which was a must. Nevertheless, while we reached by early evening (some delay due to an unforeseen mechanical problem with the vehicle which Sangey got fixed with alacrity), we plonked ourselves in the comfort of our Guest House — a combination, yet again of undisputed elegance and comfort suitably complemented by the friendly, courteous and ever-helpful personnel. Of course, they took no time to inform us that this particular Guest House had also been host to Bollywood glitterati on various occasions.
11. The next day we ventured out to visit the Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery (literally — the place of flourishing of the Buddha’s Speech) which was consecrated by His Holiness Dalai Lama on April 5, 2017. Located in the middle of mountains it is yet again a symbol of cleanliness and the ultimate abode of spirituality. By now I seemed to have run out of adjectives to describe the sublime experiences that Monasteries offer.
12. This was followed by a visit to the National Institute of Mountaineering and Adventure Sports(NIMAS) which provides specialized training in mountaineering. The enthusiastic major (on deputation from the Army) readily showed us around, graphically describing the facilities and the thrill that such activities offer replete with how the Institute is contributing in fostering such a culture in India and promoting the spirit of adventure in Indian society. Of course, over a cup of coffee, he also narrated the extremes to which summiting of Mt Everest has reached — with outlandish records being sought after. The affable major also introduced us to the extraordinary world of mountain climbing, the various kinds of holds and rudimentary techniques involved with the aid of the mountain wall in their premises. He also gave us a brief but as yet informative walk-through about the various kind of drills that their wards have to go through. Of course, to my somewhat disappointment he also informed me that considering my advanced age I was no longer eligible to undertake the activities that they enthusiastically promote.
14. In the afternoon while roaming around the market we tasted some of the most delectable Kiwis. Talking about fruits, this trip also introduced me to “persimmon” an orange, colored tomato shaped fruit which surprisingly is classified as a berry but with its delicious taste and juicy flavour seems like a citrus fruit and has a rather soothing affect on the tastebuds with a refreshing after taste. While we on our entire trip relished this fruit, we later on came to know that it is the national fruit of Japan and is colloquially knows as “Japaniphal”.
15. We were now heading towards the concluding part of our sojourn — a phase where craving for home food and palpable homesickness would normally set in. But far from it, our bodies, although a bit travel-weary were still yearning for more. Moving on, we left Dirang next day, by mid-morning for a planned stop at Nameri before moving on to Kaziranga National Park. With gradually reducing heights, the temperatures were decidedly rising although still within defined contours of being comfortable. Reaching Balipara by early evening we checked into the Guest House. The next morning we took an early morning stroll at a nearby Tea Garden and a visit to the Herbal Garden where the local people educated us on the medicinal and other beneficial properties of various varieties of herbs which they were so painstakingly trying to nurture in these surroundings. The morning was capped up by a short but nevertheless satisfying visit to the nearby Nameri Eco Camp and a walk along the Jia Bhoroli river where the soothing effects of the greenery and the calm flowing water of the river was somewhat counterbalanced by the need for caution given the possibility of wild animals and predators suddenly making an appearance.
16. We left Nameri by early noon with the plan of reaching Kaziranga in such time to be able to do the afternoon Jeep Safari of the famed Kaziranga National Park and to view not only dense grassy meadows and marshlands but also wildlife in their natural habitat. As per our information, the Park is home to the famed one-horned Rhino, is a declared Tiger Reserve and has plenty of wild water buffalos and deer. Getting into the Jeep, it was afternoon and the sun blazing, yet the driver asked us to take a jacket. Before we could respond with a perplexed questioning look, he clarified that towards the latter part of the Safari ( by early evening) temperatures really fall and it becomes chilly with the jacket becoming a necessity. Entering the park, and within just a couple of minutes we encountered the amazing sight of a herd of elephants walking almost rhythmically akin to a march. The most heart warming sight was the manner in which they were shielding, caring or protecting (call it whatever) their calves — a most heart warming display of affection which was touching and intensely emotional. Apparently familial feelings, caring for young ones is not the sole preserve of the so-called emancipated homo-sapiens alone, but also very much present in these seemingly ferocious and giant seized species — perhaps ever more and even stronger.
17. Next to that, we were privileged enough to see quite a few one-horned Rhinos in various states -sitting, walking, standing or surprisingly even running. Mind you, seeing them run and the speeds which they are able to reach is the very antithesis of their bulky appearance — the silken grace and a defining agility belying all pretensions to the contrary — somewhat of a defining anti-dote to the widely held belief of the impossibility of co-existence of bulky bodies and speed. While we would see a fair amount of other wild life, we failed (for me personally for the umpteenth time) to spot a tiger. Repeated attempts by our driver to follow pugmarks, take cues from cat calls by birds and movements of other animals, stopping for sustained periods of time at likely points, messages from other colleagues around the vast expanse of the park were to no avail. The elusive animal, did not make an appearance — a desire again remaining unfulfilled but with a hope of being fulfilled sometime in future. That apart the experience was unmistakably unforgettable by the time we reached back it was almost dark with the friendly staff manning the Guest House, ready to serve us a hot homely meal in the cosy comfort of our abode for the night.
18. Talking about the Guest House, although built fairly recently, it was an ideal blend of old world charm amidst a modern setting. The bedrooms had large sized windows overlooking the sylvan expanse of a tea-garden bathed in verdant and soothing greenery. High sofas, cosy setting, a comfortable bed and a king-sized bathroom made the package not only complete but also exotic. While the rest of the party baulked, I was determined to undertake the early morning elephant safari which from my research promised to be something out of the world notwithstanding the inconvenience of an unearthly hour and the prospect of being shoved up on an elephant in what appeared to be an posture. While the former was less of a problem ( being the habitually early riser that I am) providentially the latter issue got resolved somewhat by the fact that being a single traveller, I got to ride an elephant all by myself without being squeezed in among people either at the front and back. The entire experience had several facets to it apart from the ride through the Park itself. To begin with the cosy and intimate relationship between the elephant and the mahout was self-evident and apparent. With a combination of the subtle and not so subtle the mahout carefully and, of course, caringly guided the elephant through the park with an abundance of marshy meadows, dense forests and slushy passages — a path-tricky, treacherous and laborious in itself. Simultaneously he gave me an almost running commentary with a description of the landscape, the expected animals which we could view their habits. Years of experience and a deeply embedded desire to imbibe what the surrounding offered seemed to have made him an authority on the park.
19. I was again lucky enough to see an abundance of wild life (save the “Tiger”). But what disappointed me was seeing a couple of Rhinos, both in strolling and standing poses, badly hurt with blood oozing heavily. The ever so informed Mahout informed me that while such occurrences were rare, the diligent personnel manning the park are ever alert to such episodes and are prompt in their response while taking proactive measures. The other worth mentioning experience was watching a group of deer making noises loudly in unison, as if playing a symphony, probably to alert their ilk of a lurking danger or merely venting their feeling — the reason, a lay person like me could not fathom but that did not prevent me from savouring the ultimate spontaneity and magnificence of the performance. Besides, the clinical efficiency with which the Elephant picked up food along the way and rolled it up with the Trunk was a sight in itself. Being herbivores they devour on grass, roots, twigs and leaves in equal measure.
20. Coming back and after a breakfast, as planned me and my wife took a walk in the tea-garden adjoining our Guest House. Manifesting rows and rows of tea plants at various stages of development and the trees on the periphery having trunks covered in equisitively manicured ivy coupled with the soothing air and a calm atmosphere made for a magical experience. What we had originally planned for only about half an hour stretched to well beyond one hour with the entire package that was an offer making us yearning for more.
21. Coming back and after a hearty meal, the Guest House caretaker guided us to the local market where we did the solitary shopping of the trip — some packets of locally made tea-leaves which represented the local flavour and a couple of artifacts (including wooden one horned rhinos in various sizes) which some local artisans had so diligently and equitably crafted. And with that we came to the end of our eventful (in the positive sense), soothing and calming sojourn to a part of the North-East. A four hour drive, of course, in pleasurable surroundings, took us to Guwahati Airport to reach in time to be able to board the flight to Delhi.
22. At the end of it, the sublime experience only made us yearn for more to explore the mystique (now partially unravelled) not only of Arunachal Pradesh of which large parts we had still missed and the other sister States which, we were told, also have loads to offer. Given the sheer diversity expanse and array of experience that the area offers, some of it still largely untouched, the lure is enough to undertake more trips to the area. Till then, let us savour our experiences and cherish our memories.
